History

History of Lace

15th century:
The beginnings of lace, which gradually developed from embroidery and decorative braids.

Early 16th century:
Lace was produced by noble ladies and also by nuns in monasteries. The tradition and teaching of lacemaking were preserved in monasteries until the 20th century.

Late 16th century:
Lace production became widespread among the general population.

17th–18th centuries:
The greatest flourishing of lace. It was worn by priests, nobility, officers and royal courts (during the reigns of Louis XIII and Louis XVI).

1789 – The French Revolution:
Development of lace production came to a complete halt due to the abolition of aristocratic privileges.

The Empire period:
Attempts were made to restore the popularity and production of lace.

19th century:
A gradual decline followed the revolution due to industrialization, economic hardship and social conflicts.

20th century:
Several regional lace production centers were re-established.

Before World War II:
The global economic crisis also affected the lace industry.

After World War II:
New fashion trends emerged – lace began to be used in ready-made clothing, fine lingerie, curtains and home textiles.

Milestones in the History of Lacemaking Worldwide

Before 1494:
A painting by Hans Memling (†1494) for a citizen of Bruges named Floreinsky depicts clothing decorated with bobbin lace – probably the first known visual representation of lace.

1582:
Lacemakers were part of the delegation welcoming the Duke of Anjou during his visit to Lille.

1660:
Colbert founded the Royal Lace Manufacture and brought 30 Venetian and 200 Flemish lacemakers to France.

1662:
England banned the import of all lace.

1678:
A ship sailing to England with a cargo of lace (1,118 meters) was confiscated.

1738:
Lace worth 3,000 pounds was purchased for the bedroom of the French queen.

1766:
Lacemaking was declared a free trade.

1817:
The Vienna Lace School was relocated to Prague.

1896:
Industrial statistics show that 47,571 people in Belgium were involved in lace production.

1908:
Machine production of bobbin lace began at M. Faber & Co. in Letovice.

1925:
Bobbin lace became part of Czechoslovak exhibitions at world fairs.

History – Lacemaking on the European Continent

Machine lace production in Letovice was the first of its kind on the European continent, beginning 20 years earlier than its closest competitor in Germany.

Until 1856, lace production in Letovice had no competition on the European continent and could develop smoothly. The only competition came from England, but English lace was imported only rarely.

Competition from English producers was avoided by focusing on the Austro-Hungarian market, which was protected by high import duties. This effectively protected domestic lace production from foreign competition.

Lace Production in Letovice

In 1832, the merchant Daniel Baum purchased buildings of a former manufactory from Count Kálnoky and began adapting them for bobbin lace machinery purchased in England.

Since exporting such machines from England was forbidden and punishable by death, Baum had the machines dismantled and secretly transported them to Letovice in 1833 via Hamburg, Szczecin, Antwerp and Trieste. Long shafts were hidden beneath the ship.

By 1834, lace production had already begun in Letovice using Warp machines, producing so-called “Tatting lace.”

On August 1, 1834, the financially exhausted Baum was forced to sell the installed machines. They were purchased by his brother-in-law Moritz Faber and his friend Ludwig Damböck.

In 1834, the factory was visited by Emperor Francis I, who granted imperial protection to the young company. The protection mainly consisted of high import tariffs on foreign lace (estimated at about 100% of production costs).

After the emperor’s death, the tariff was reduced by half. Lace prices were therefore set in near-monopoly conditions, allowing significant capital accumulation and technological development.

The construction of the Brno–Česká Třebová railway line in 1848 further supported the development of lace production.

In 1863, the founder Daniel Baum died and the factory was managed by Moritz Faber.

Around 1885, the Letovice factory began facing competition from other companies, including Wagner and Rohlinek in Brno. These competitors eventually went bankrupt and their machines were moved to Letovice.

Other companies ceased operations similarly, while some producers such as Tüll und Spitzenfabrik in Aš and Gottschald & Co. in Prague continued production until World War II.

The Letovice factory expanded beyond its original location and established lace production facilities in:

Mezilesí
Milan (later moved to Turin)
Wiener Neustadt
Vienna
Győr
Velká Štáhle
Gumpendorf

Production on Bobbin Machines

In 1908, the first 50 bobbin lace machines were installed in Letovice.

After World War I (1918) and the collapse of Austria-Hungary, the lace industry faced many challenges. Fashion trends also changed and traditional garments using lace became less common.

New machines were purchased to compete with French lace products.

By 1925, the number of bobbin machines reached 430, making Letovice the largest bobbin lace producer in Europe. New patterns were designed by leading Vienna artists.

The factory employed more than 1,000 people. New markets were sought while dealing with customs barriers.

In 1929, the global economic crisis reduced demand, leading to reduced production and layoffs.

In 1939, after the occupation of Czechoslovakia, lace production continued in Letovice, although the company also introduced wartime armaments production.

History of the Factory in Drnovice

1800:
The first plans for factory buildings date from this year. Count Albrecht Dubský of Lysice built the first buildings of what became the Dubský factory for screws and nails, one of the first screw factories in Austria-Hungary.

1863:
Construction of a new boiler house and modernization of screw and nail production.

1921:
Major modernization by Count Dubský completely changed the appearance of the factory. New steam boilers and machinery were installed.

At that time it was one of the most modern and efficient screw factories. The site also included housing for staff and modern facilities for workers.

1932:
Production stopped twice during the year and was eventually terminated despite strong demand. Due to pressure from a cartel that reduced nail prices below the cost of wire, Dubský ended production.

Machines were moved to northern Moravia.

From 1933, the factory buildings remained empty.

1943–1946:
The buildings were rented by Emil Ryzí, who produced wooden toys there.

On January 1, 1946, the national company Tylex – lace and tulle factories Letovice was established and took over the lace industry in the Czech lands.

Mid-1948:
All bobbin machines were moved to the factory in Drnovice, which specialized in bobbin lace and curtain production.

All bobbin lace production from Letovice and later from across the country was concentrated in Drnovice.

Machines were also transferred from northern and eastern border regions.

By 1949, the factory was fully operational and production ran on machines from several manufacturers.

The factory buildings were gradually modernized, including worker facilities. The factory has always been maintained in very good technical condition.

Bobbin machines were carefully maintained and modernized over time.